Fail-proof adhesives for glass & ceramics
Creating your own garden art from dishware is both fun and rewarding. You’ve collected your special glass or ceramic pieces and are ready to get started. But did you know that the type of glue you use when making garden art is actually the most important part of your project?
The most common question I get at craft shows is “what glues do you use for your garden art?” Proof of how crucial using the right stuff really is. It’s not enough to know what to use. It’s equally important to know why it works, and how some products may be a little better to use in certain cases.
You put some time and effort into finding just the right materials so your garden pretty will be admired by friends and family. So, naturally you want it to hold up in all types of weather. Using the wrong glues may cause your dish flower or bird bath to fall apart and break and all the hard work you put into it is lost.
The right glue for the right project
Of course, you not only want to use the ‘right’ glue, but the very best glues for glass and ceramics garden art. Believe me, this is a hot topic among artists. When I started making dish flowers and totems, I spent hours upon hours on the Internet learning about glue: what works, what doesn’t and why. I read about all the issues my fellow crafters were having as they experimented with a whole slew of adhesives in a variety of climates.
The typical glues used for most indoor arts and crafts–like those that are applied with a hot glue gun–are not at all suitable for use outdoors. Even some of the stronger epoxies which are otherwise superb for interior use, may not be reliable in the variety of temperatures and weather conditions outside.
That being said, here are the two glues I personally use for my own garden art based on experience. They also happen to be the most widely used by professionals as well as hobbyists who enjoy making these sculptures from re-purposed dishware. For your benefit, I’ve included a lot of details about the products and why you can have confidence using them.
GE 100% Silicone II
Actually, silicone is not a “glue” at all, but a sealant. Silicone is most commonly used in the house in kitchens and bathrooms. It’s the water-proofing product that’s applied around the outside edge of a kitchen or bathroom sink, tub or shower. It keeps water from getting in-between the cracks which prevents water damage and mold and mildew from developing.
The type of silicone to use for garden art is made for exterior use. It’s the one used for sealing the outside of a window. I have seen DIY videos that use the indoor version, so make sure the package says exterior.
Why so many crafters love silicone
The beauty of 100% silicone is that it dries to a tough, rubbery consistency, yet remains pliable. It’s the ideal product for exterior windows as well as for garden art because it is strong and 100% waterproof. It will not freeze and crack in the frigid cold nor turn to melted butter in hot climates. GE’s Silicone II says right on the package that it can hold up in temperatures from 60 below zero to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.
Think about this: you may have oven mitts and cupcake pans made from silicone that you can bake at 350 degrees for 20 minutes. It’s great stuff!
- Strong bonding
- 100% waterproof
- Freezeproof
- Sunproof
- Thick, easy to work with
- virtually no odor
If you’re last memory of using silicone involved rigid cylindrical tubes and the equally fussy caulking guns, think again! For a number of years, craftsmen fumbled with these messy, over-sized contraptions. I would never have ventured into making dish art if it meant using one of these. However, just a few years ago, due in part to the growing popularity of dish garden art, GE introduced a whole new package.
Now, silicone comes in a small, easy to use package about the size and shape of a tube of toothpaste. It dispenses the product just as smoothly with a little bit of pressure. It fits snugly in the palm of your hand and is practically effortless to apply. You’ll find it in the paint section of your local hardware store.
Silicone: What’s good and not-so-good
The other nice thing about silicone is that it is thick and does not drip or run. The bead tends to stay put on the bottom rim of a plate, cup or saucer. The best part is that it doesn’t have a strong odor, so you won’t have to open windows or be concerned about fumes. It also does not dry out too quickly giving you more time to make adjustments.
The downside to Silicone:
Although the package says the product is “clear”, it’s more of a cloudy-clear and is visible when completely cured. However, if you’re bonding two solid ceramic plates together, the glue is on the backside and will not show.
To seal around an outside edge, use the tip of your finger, a small artist’s paint brush or a Q-tip to smooth the bead out. Then its hardly noticeable when dry.
E-6000
E-6000 is another product favored by those who make garden art or other works with glass. It’s a “true” glue. You’ll find it in the paint/adhesives isle at your local hardware store. It also comes in a toothpaste-shaped package, but it’s quite a bit different than silicone. E-6000 is an industrial strength adhesive that is ideal for glass and ceramics. Like silicone, it also has a flexible, rubbery consistency that really grips, surface to surface.
E-6000 holds together well outside in almost any weather. It’s water-proof and can withstand temperatures from minus 40 to 180 degrees. It’s been described as “thick”, and while it’s thicker than Gorilla Glue, it’s quite thin compared to silicone. The bead just doesn’t stay in place as well and tends to slide off an edge or drip if applied a little too heavily. E-6000 is a bit trickier and messier to work with and tends to be “stringy”.
Like silicone, it takes a little time to get tacky, so pieces should be held firmly in place for a minute or two. Depending on what is being bonded together, find something than can be used as a weight to ensure optimum bonding during this process.
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E-6000: What’s good and not-so-good
The upside and probably its best feature–surpassing silicone–is that it dries clear. Crystal clear. That makes it superb for art projects using clear and colored glass (stained glass) when you don’t want the glue to be visible.
- Waterproof, weather resilient
- Industrial bonding
- Excellent temperature spread
- Strong odor
- Dries crystal clear
Not-So-Good: The un-pleasant side of E-6000 is its strong chemical odor. Prolonged exposure to vapors can cause some people to experience dizziness or headaches.
NOTE for hot climates: E-6000 may not perform well in hot climates in direct sunlight. Prolonged exposure, and heat absorption–combined with the wight of the plates–may weaken the glue and cause it to fail.
Conclusion
So now, with your dishware on the table in front of you, it’s time to get creative. Once you’ve decided how your piece will go together, you have two super, highly dependable adhesives to choose from. Using the right glues, you can complete your garden art project with confidence. Your dish flower or bird bath will be a pretty accent to be admired by everyone who visits your garden.
DISCLAIMER: My review and recommendation is based solely on my experience using them as a professional craftsman. I have no personal connection to the two products mentioned in this post nor do I receive any benefit from promoting them.
Other posts about glass garden art:
The Best Plates to Use for Making Dish Flowers
How to Attach A Dish Flower to a Post
Will exterior GE 100% silicone II or E6000 adhesives work on cookie tin lids (that I want to use as my “plates”) in my dish flowers?
Thanks,
Kathy
Kathy, I love your sense of imagination with the cookie tins. Great idea! I would try the E-6000 first for tin. I’m sure either product would work (I haven’t used tin, yet), but I have encountered times when there can be a chemical reaction between adhesives and the substances you want to bond something to. In my own experience, silicone is fantastic with glass and ceramic. But I’m less convinced for other materials. So try the E-6000 and let me know how it goes.
I live at an altitude of almost 4000 feet. I stated glueing crystal (real and fake) together to make these lovely things. I the summer they’re in the sun all day, sometimes 100 degrees. No problem. Unfortunately, E6000 doesn’t like snow or freezing temperatures! Comes apart and just leaves the glue on the pieces. Unfortunately the glue dopant come off even with scraping so the pieces are noe useless. Also if you don’t have items on a perfectly level surface they slide apart before the glue is dry.
Hi Lori! I always recommend bringing garden art inside over the winter…garage or shed. E-6000 is a true glue with certain ingredients made to bond two things together. Where-as Silicone is made to SEAL windows on the exterior. So it’s water proof and sun-proof and remains pliable. Therefore, it has ingredients to perform that function. It’s this same reason that makes it so nice for glass and ceramic garden art. Both products have their ups and downs. If you’re worried about E-6000 slipping during the curing process, you might find something you can use as a weight to hold it securely in place. Jar with pebbles in it, can of soup, etc. Thanks for dropping a line! ~ Kristen
I love the information about the adhesives! Thank you! What about if you are gluing something on wood? Would those adhesives work for those also?
Thank you so much!
Thanks for your kind words- I always strive to be helpful. To answer your question: According to the package, GE Silicone can be used with wood. I’ve only used it a couple of times gluing a ceramic tea cup to the top of a table leg for garden decor…but it bonded well and has held up. Just make sure there’s no grease or oils or anything on the wood that would compromise the bonding. Maybe give the surface a light sanding first. As for E-6000, it claims to have excellent adhesion to wood. I’ve not tried E-6000 with wood, but if the manufacturer says it will bond to wood, I’d say, go ahead and give it a try. Good luck with your project and thanks for visiting our blog!
Absolutely love this site! Everything you create is absolutely gorgeous! I am just trying to get an idea for how to price things. Etsy has prices all over the place- high to low. Do you ever disclose what you price your art at? Or is there an article that you wrote about pricing?
Thank you!
Jamie, Thank you for the kind remarks, that means a lot to me. As for Pricing, good question! I should do an article dedicated to pricing. There are 2 primary schools of thought. One is cost of materials x 2 or even 3. The other is $25/hour based on the time it takes to make it. While neither is ideal for dish art, it’s a starting point, and you can go from there. You might wanna find out what other makers are selling them for in your area. I have looked at Etsy sellers and E-Bay sellers. (Amazon even has a handmade market now) On these sites, sellers have to deal with the additional costs of packaging materials and the cost of shipping which can vary widely. Some sellers include an extra charge for the time it takes them to do the packing and stand in line at the post office. While others do not. It’s interesting and you have to read the fine print when you shop online. One seller might sell a dish flower for $40 + shipping. Another sells for $80 shipping included. Both end up being about the same price.
At this point in time, I only sell locally. Pricing on original sculpture is hard. It’s not a cookie-cutter craft. I price my pieces each a little differently depending on the amount of artistry and detail that goes into it. My construction method requires a lot more effort as well. I drill my plates. That takes more time, special drill bits, drilling the post, buying additional hardware like bolts and wing nuts. I also use a galvanized metal post. On the other hand, other makers glue a bent spoon to the backside of the flowerhead and use a cheaper aluminum post. While they make nice pieces, too, obviously, there’s a considerable price difference.
I tend to hand-paint on clear glass pieces (added time and artistry)and some of my dish flowers have quite a few extra details added such as glass beads. Some are more simple and plain. Others are more extravagant and ornate. There’s just so many things to take into consideration when pricing. Truth be told, I probably under-price my art. I hope this helps. If you have further questions, please feel free to contact me again. – Kristen/MIAG
I have a question that is causing problems with some of the items I make (I do use both glues that you suggest). The issue is water inside some of the vessels I glue together. I live in KS so we do have heavy humidity and rain, but I have gone to sealer and resealing the seams, but still water inside! Can’t get it out because glue is solid! What am I doing wrong?
Thanks for your question. Are you making a dish flower or a totem/tower type item? Without seeing it, it’s a little tough, but I’m happy to do my best to help you troubleshoot: It’s not the glue…particularly not the silicone b/c it’s a waterproof sealer. There could be a tiny crack or chip on the item you didn’t see before gluing it together. Otherwise, the only thing I can think of is that there’s a place on your item that didn’t get sealed. Maybe it wasn’t sealed all the way around. Or if it has a textured or un-even surface that’s a bit more tricky to get the silicone where it needs to be, so maybe you just missed covering that spot. Sometimes, dishware or pottery has a certain shape and it could be harder to get the silicone into a tight space where two come together. I wouldn’t worry about it too much, it should not be a big deal. Your area gets quite hot too, so the water on the inside should dry up. Would you be able to send me a photo or two? I could get a better idea of what you are describing to be even more helpful. I have an e-mail: Kristen@makeitagarden.com. Look forward to hearing from you.
Yes, I get water inside also with E 6000. I stack crystal (real and fake from thrift store). Beside that, if you’re not working an absolutely level surface everything slides around before the glue is dry. I come back a few minute later and everything is lopsided. Then you can’t get the glue off even with peeling, scraping, acetone, etc, so all your items are now useless. Glue dries out in tube, so is not useable next time. Yes, if you do succeed, it will hold up in all day sunlight at 100 degrees, but it doesn’t like snow and freezing temperatures. Have not tried the silicone yet but hope I have better results when I so.
I love the ceramic towers. Lots of pretty ceramic stuff at my local thrift store too and the have a half-price day!
I’ve heard from others who have had problems with E-6000 too. It’s a completely different product than Silicone. Here’s a short article I wrote about Silicone that might be helpful: https://makeitagarden.com/why-silicone-is-the-best-glue-for-garden-art/
Silicone is thicker. All glue can slide around, especially if not completely level, so find something that can be used as a weight. Otherwise you have to hold it with a light amount of pressure for a few minutes. Glue in the tube…whether silicone or E-6000 should last several months if the cap is on tightly. Use a cloth rag…an old t-shirt cut into squares, to wipe off the tip of the tube after use. That way, the cap screws on nice and air-tight. Sometimes, glue can dry over the opening, but the rest of the tube is perfectly fine. Try using a tooth-pick and insert it down into the hole. E-6000 is rubbery and elastic, so you may have to insert the toothpick several times until it opens up enough to squeeze out product. Sometimes, you can just peel off the dried stuff over the tip and you’re good to go! But try the Silicone and see if you like it or not. Make sure to get the one that is for doors and windows and is “clear”. Silicone is not as clear as E-6000. If you are making a totem, use your finger to wipe the access, smoothing the bead out and it will be less visible. And will seal between the two objects. Let me know how it goes, OK? ~Kristen
Thank you for the great information! There is artistry in my bloodline, but I didn’t wholly express the gene like Mom, daughter and others 🤣
Anyway, I am creating frog and tree frog habitat/sanctuary. First go, sadly disappointed with hot glue, so I will be trying these!
Thank you so much for sharing what you have learned!
Very interesting your frog habitat! Hot glue guns, as you’ve discovered are really intended for indoor crafts. It’s just a different way to use Elmer’s (essentially) w/o the mess. But if you want to do something exposed to weather…like the moist conditions frogs enjoy, you need a glue that is MADE for that environment. Silicone is what they use to seal bathtubs and kitchen sinks and even fish tanks. Hope it works for you and your froggies. I love frogs…we have some small wood frogs in my area and I come across them from time to time out in the garden.
Curious on what glue would be best for plastics in garden art pieces. Or metal metal to plastics
From my experience, it kind of depends on the type of plastic. For example, those that are non-stick…believe me, they really are non-stick! I tried silicone once, and it held for a short while, but with very little effort, it pulled right off. You see, Glue is very chemical and so are plastics. I’ve had better luck using hard plastics like melamine. The chemicals in some glues have different degrees of resistance to different metals…nickle, copper, aluminum, zinc. etc. If I had a better idea of what your project was, and what you are wanting to do, I might have better answer. With glue you sometimes just have to experiment a bit to see what works. I would start with E-6000. You can also research on-line by typing in a phrase about ‘glues that stick to plastic’ or ‘stick to metal’. Feel free to contact me again…always happy to help!
I’m not sure I understand the question. Are you asking how to glue glass together for something like garden art that will be outside? Or are you asking what GLUE to USE for outside? I have not used the Gorilla brand myself, but I do know that they make a 90% silicone product and I highly recommend silicone for garden art because it is made for outdoors. Make sure to use CLEAR and make sure it’s the kind for Exterior/doors & windows. Silicone is water proof, freeze proof and sun proof. However, if you are gluing two pieces of GLASS together, you may wish to use E-6000 rather than silicone as it is completely CLEAR and dries clear so the glue doesn’t show. The only downside to E-6000 is if you live in a hot climate, the glue can become soft when exposed to prolonged high temperatures (glass absorbs heat) and your craft piece may not hold together. But E-6000 and silicone are the two most commonly used adhesives by crafters who make glass garden art.
Have you tried a glue called Goop? I’m interested to know your opinion. I’ve used it lately on glass projects and really like it.
Thanks for the question. I have not personally used Goop, but know some people do. The MOST IMPORTANT quality is if the glue will hold up to the summer HEAT in your particular area. Always research or read the info on the package to check the heat rating. Marine Goop and E-6000 have about the same heat rating. 180 degrees. That may seem like a lot, but it really isn’t. Glass (and ceramics) absorb and retain heat. After many days in the hot sun, the glue could/possibly fail. But that all depends on where you live. I live in an area with mild summer temperatures where it doesn’t get that hot. E-6000 (which I also use) and probably Goop (which I haven’t used) will do just fine. Most of the time, I use 100% silicone which has a heat rating of 400 degrees. It’s made for exterior…primarily to seal around the outside of a window. So it is water proof, freeze proof and sun proof. Many baking gadgets like pot holders, trivets and cupcake pans are made of silicone. If you are having success with the product you’re using, then keep using it. Whatever works for you! (I may even give it a try for comparison!) ~ Kristen
Love all your information! I have been using both together, like first the glue and then put the adhesive on top. Is that bad or ok? Thought maybe that would be double the hold. Thank you for all the information!!
Nooooo! I learned the hard way never to combine glues. Especially NOT silicone and E-6000 b/c they conflict. Glues are chemical. An ingredient in E6000 causes the silicone not to set up. I actually tried this thinking as you did. But there are hairline gaps as surfaces are seldom perfectly level. Some of the E-6000 seeped out and contacted the silicone turning the silicone to mush. So I actually wrote a blog post about this as well. https://makeitagarden.com/weird-glue-failures-and-solutions-for-garden-art/. Bottom line, it’s not a good idea to combine glues.